• Coral Channel


It's inevitable that small everyday items end up in the kitchen, leaving your space feeling unorganized and cluttered! Take command of your kitchen mess and build this simple DIY kitchen command center - great for keys, mail and everyday odds and ends!

This project was part of season 2 of Buy or DIY. Newlywed and first time homeowners, Sam and Brandon came to us looking to solve their big white kitchen wall space, clutter and a hanging wall plug. Danie created a small wall hanging command center that could live above the plug to make a phone charging station, but also solve their clutter. Most importantly, Danie took Sam's love of "Canadiana" flare and added a unique back to help tie it all together.


¾” 16x48 Pine shop shelving

13/32 x 1.15/16 x 7 moulding

Wood Cuts

Pine Shop Shelving:

PIECE A: (1) 14 x 24

PIECE B: (1) 5 x 24  


(2) 10” cut at 45 degree on each side

(2) 24” cut at 45 degree on each side



Measuring tape

Miter saw

Jig saw


Brad nailer

Circular saw

Wood glue

Staple gun + staples

Cane webbing

3” wood screws

1” brad nails



220 grit sandpaper

⅜” drill bit

⅛” drill bit

3/16” drill bit

7/64” drill bit

1 ¼” hole saw

Wood conditioner

Stain (color of your choice)

Staining rags

Rubber gloves

Acrylic paint (color of your choice)

Sponge brushes


Painters tape

D Ring or Keyhole picture hangers

Brass cup hooks

Decorative knobs

1) Cut wood to the following sizes:

  • 14 x24 [PIECE A]

  • 5 x 24 - [PIECE B]

2) Measure down 10” from the top of Piece A and use a straightedge to draw a line across. This 10” mark will be the guideline for your shelf. Above the line is SIDE A, below the line is SIDE B.

3) Measure 1 ½” inwards from each edge of SIDE A. Mark with a pencil. When you are finished, you should have something that looks like a window drawn inside SIDE A.

4) Take a ⅜” drill bit and drill two holes in opposite corners of the windowed area, making sure your holes are created inside the window. Clamp your board to your work surface and remove the wood inside using a jigsaw. The holes you created ahead of time will allow you to run your jigsaw up and over and both sides.

5) Take Piece B and decide which side is your top and which side is your bottom, place the top side facing upward on your work surface. Measure 6” inward from the right side and 3” down from the back. Mark the cross point. Using a 1 ¼” hole saw, drill through your board to create a hole. It’s helpful to place a scrap piece of wood underneath your board to ensure you don't ruin your table. Alternatively, you can clamp the board to the side of your table top and drill through.

6) Place the ¾” long edge of Piece B under your marked 10” line and trace the bottom edge (alternatively, measure ¾” from the 10” line using your measuring tape).

7) Create 5 evenly spaced X marks along the inside of your ¾” area. Be aware of the placement of your 1 ¼” hole you just drilled. You’ll want to avoid placing a mark in this section. Use a ⅛” drill bit and pre-drill all the marked sections.

8) Run a line of wood glue along your marked section and clamp Piece B to Piece A.  Turn your board over. You should see your pre-drill holes from step 7. Using those same holes as your guide, take your ⅛” drill bit with a counter sink and pre-drill into Piece B from the back.

9) Secure Piece A to Piece B using 3” wood screws.

10) Using a 3/16” inch drill bit, drill two holes into both bottom corners. I measured 2” inwards and 1 ⅝” up from the bottom. Your drill bit size will depend on your chosen knobs. Use the bolt on the knob as your guide for picking the correct bit. It should roughly be the same size so that the bolt will fit through will ease later.

11) Sand the shelf using a 220-grit sandpaper.

12) Take your moulding, cut 4 pieces at the following lengths using a mitre saw:

  • (2) 10” cut at 45 degree on each side

  • (2) 24” cut at 45 degree on each side.

13) Pre-stain the entire shelf and moulding cuts. Using pre-stain will help prevent streaks and blotches. *Always make sure to stain in a well ventilated space or stain outside.

14) Stain shelf and moulding cuts using a cotton rag. Let dry. Apply as many coats as you see fit. *Remember that stain attends to dry darker, so it’s always best to let dry before applying a second coat.

15) Create the decorative backing using cane webbing, commonly used for chair seats and backs where a groove has been routed in the frame. I was only planning on using this as a decorative element, so I didn’t bother with the groove. Cut out a piece 22 x 8” using scissors. Once cut, I found it easier to add painters tape to all the edges so that the webbing did not frey.

16) *Optional: add some personality to your cane webbing by painting sections. Use painters tape to tape off the area you don't want painted and dab on acrylic paint with a sponge brush. Let dry.

17) Once your frame and decorative cane webbing is dry, use a staple gun to attach the cane webbing to the wood frame. Pull it tight across as you secure in place.

18) Apply wood glue along the exposed edges and attach the stained moulding pieces using a brad nailer and 1” brad nails.

19) Add D ring hangers or keyhole picture hangers to the back.

20) *Optional: add small brass cup hooks to the front of the frame to hang important household keys. Depending on the wood type, you should be able to simply screw the hook in by hand. If not, use a 7/64" drill bit to create a small pre-drill hole first.

21) Add your decorative knobs, and VOILA! A DIY kitchen command center ready for use! Add decorative elements onto the shelf and use the hole as a place to feed cords to charge your electronic devices! This shelf will get so used you’ll wonder how you never had one before!