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DIY Industrial TWIN-HEAD Floor Lamp

Copper pipe DIY's are so 2018. Let's step up our Do-It-Yourself game with this colorful DIY Twin-Head Industrial Floor Lamp complete with a marbled geometric base!


A perfect way to add a little personality and flair to any space! ✨💡




Raw Materials:

(1)  6” - ¾” copper pipe

(2)  T-bar

(2) elbow

(1) cap

(2) ¾ FIPT (female international pipe thread) fitting


Pipe Cuts:

(2) 4” copper pipe

(1) 2” copper pipe

(1) 52” pipe  

(1) 12” inches


Other Materials:

(1) Foam core sheet

(1) Pencil

Straight edge ruler

Precision cutter

Glue gun + hot glue

Pentagon stencil

Painters tape

Round stepping stone plastic mold

Measuring tape

Black felt marker

(2) wire lamp covers

3/16" drill bit

⅜” drill bit

¾" pipe cutter

Drill

Punch

Hammer

220 grit sand paper

Orbital sander

PL construction adhesive

(2) Plug-in pendant lights

Wire cutters

Wire stripper

White electrical tape

(2) Butt spices for 18 gauge wires

Nylon rope

Rocker switch (white)

White primer spray paint

Spray paint

Safety glasses

Rubber gloves

Face mask

Morter concrete mix

Mixing bucket

Stir stick

Container for base mold


1) Using your ¾” pipe cutter, cut the pipe into the following sizes:

(1) 4” copper pipe

(1) 2” copper pipe

(1) 52” pipe  

(1) 12” inches

Place aside.


2) Take your foam core sheet, and begin to trace your pentagon stencil using a pencil. Connect the sides 5 times. Add one pentagon tracing upside down on your first pentagon.


Repeat this creation directly beside the first pencil tracings. When you are finished you should have a pattern that looks like this in front of you:


3) Use your ruler and straight edge blade to cut the two shapes out, staying only on the outside lines. Remove the excess foam board.


4) Use your ruler to help guide your blade to score the inside lines, only pressing hard enough puncture the top layer, not the bottom. When you’re done, you should be able to fold in the uncut sides to see your doe-deca-hedron start to take shape.


5) Starting with base A, use hot glue to secure all the exposed edges together. Once complete you should have a small bowl with pointing edges on the top!


6) Take base B and begin to slowly glue the sides together with glue and patience. I don’t recommend moving onto the next side until the first side is secured completely. Once the two sides have been secured together, you can go back and fill in any gaps that may have been created in the drying process.


7) For extra security, tape all the edges with painters or duct tape to keep your mold feeling sturdy.


8) Using your mortar mix, a mix bucket and water, start with 1 cup of water in your mix bucket. Begin to pour your mortar mix into the bucket, quickly stirring as your go. You want to create a 4:1 ratio or until the mix is thick enough to pour, but not liquidy. Once you have created enough mix in your bucket, pour into your doe-deca-hedron mold. Don’t worry if you didn’t make enough, simply whip up more mix in your bucket as fast as you can and add to the top.


9) Act fast! Take your 52” copper pipe and place into the middle of your wet cement mix and let dry in a place that can help secure the pipe in a vertical state. Placing the mold under a table with the pipe taped to the edge of the table works great! Let dry for 24 hours.



10) Using the same mixing steps from step 8, whip up another batch of cement and pour into the round plastic mold. If you want to create a cool marbled look like us, simply leave a little room on the top of your mold. Mix a small amount of mortar and water in your bucket leaving it slightly more watery than instructed. Poor the watery mix on the top. Take your desired spray paint color and spray in a few areas of the mix in a circular formation. The watery substance should naturally disperse the color for you, leaving you with a cool marbled effect. Let dry for 24 hours.



11) Once dry, take your base with the copper pipe (now forever lodged within it) and create a small mark on the pipe just above the base. Using your punch and a hammer, create a small indent on your mark. This small indent will help your drill bit stay in one place while you drill your hole.


12) Use a drill and a ¾” drill bit to bore a hole into the copper pipe. Once through, use the edge of the bit to help create a larger gap around the edges of the opening. Make sure to not drill through the other side. Use sandpaper to dull any sharp edges made from the drilling.




13) Take your two pendant lights and measure the length of your pipe plus an extra 10 inches on the wire and cut it so that the plugs have been detached from the light. Don’t stress, your light will shine bright again!  


*Throw away one plug end - you won't need this anymore.


14) Begin to create the top of your lamp with the following pipes:


Feed the first light cord through the FIPT, through the fittings and out the bottom of the T BAR. Pull through until the end of the light cord is touching the FIPT.  


15) Feed the cord through the 12” pipe and connect to the first T-bar.


16) Create the second arm using the same combination and feed the second light cord through the fittings. Once completed, feed the first light cord through the second T-bar fitting. Once complete you should have both light arms stuck together and two cut cords hanging out the bottom.


17) Use white electrical tape to secure the two cords together at the end. Tie a knot and tape nylon cord to the bottom of the cords and feed the nylon string through the 52” pipe until you see the string through the small hole you bored out in step 12. Pull the nylon string through the hole and pull until the two light cord wires are exposed. Carefully pull the two light cords through the hole and continue to feed the cord through until you can attach the 12” pipe to the 52” pipe.


18) Decide where your rocker switch will be positioned on your light cord. Cut any excess white cord away that you don’t need using wire cutters.




19) Take all cut wires (two cut ends coming out of the light and the one cut plug end you kept) and use wire cutters to carefully remove the white rubber casing about 2 inches up that surrounds the black and white wires inside. Use wire strippers to remove the white and black rubber tubes protecting the copper wiring. Repeat this step on all three cords.

*Remember: WHITE CORD = NEUTRAL, BLACK CORD = HOT


20) Twist both exposed neutral cords on the white side together. Take an 18 gauge butt splice and carefully place the neutral wires in the butt splice and clamp it shut.


21) taking the hot wires (black cords) attached to the light, twist both exposed HOT wires together.


22) Before you twist attach anything onto your rocker switch, most switches come with a little area called the KNOCK OUT section. This allows you to cut away some of the plastic to make room for larger wire types. On the lamp side, you’ll need to remove the knock out section to allow enough room to fit both light wires.



23) Take the twisted HOT wires and twist it around the indicated screw side, twisting clockwise so that the wire will inevitably tighten once you tighten the screw down.


Take the exposed HOT wire on the plug side and wrap it around the second indicated screw in the rocker switch and twist around clockwise, again tightening it down with the screw.




At this point, you may want to test to ensure your light works before you attach the second side of the switch firmly together.  Once confirmed it works, hide the butt splice section inside the rocker switch and close the two sides together firmly with the indicated screws.


24) For a neater look, wrap white electrical tape around the two light cords to make it look like one neatly wrapped cord.


25) Sand the marbled bottom piece. Using Extra Strength PL adhesive, attach the light base and the bottom round base together. Let dry for 24 Hours.


26) Use industrial strength glue to attach the hanging pendant light to the FIPT fitting. Tape to hold until dry.


27) Wrap the base, cords and any exposed areas you don’t wish to spray paint with painters tape and plastic.


28) Use 220 grit sandpaper to rough up any exposed copper so that the spray paint will have a rough surface to attach to.


29) Spray paint the lamp with a white spray primer first. Let dry.

30) Spray the lamp in your desired color (we picked this fun lime green), making sure to spray in small bursts about ½ foot away from the light. The small burts will help keep the paint job even and drip free. Let dry.



31) Take your two wire pendant light frames and spray paint them your desired color. We chose to use the white primer and called it a day! Let dry.


32) Once dry, add your wireframes and light bulbs and you’re ready to light it up!





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