DIY Hanging Plant Wall | Buy or DIY
Updated: Apr 12, 2019
We’re On Board With This DIY Green Wall Planter
This DIY green wall is the perfect solution for big, empty white spaces. With its ceramic planters and rough pine boards, it adds custom art to your wall while providing a beautiful, natural backdrop. Add plants and a few pops of gold, and your blank wall is transformed!
This DIY tutorial is available as a FREE PDF download! Become a member at thecoralchannel.com/buyordiy to get a download link!
6 - 1x6x6 Rustic Rough Pine Boards (https://amzn.to/2B4o2WC)
1 - 1x2x8 Pine Wood (https://amzn.to/2ORcsAK)
2 x Picture Hangers weighted for 30+ Lbs (https://amzn.to/2MwOzgq)
1” Wood Screws (https://amzn.to/2M5GnYg)
1” Furniture Pads (https://amzn.to/2Mfz67r)
3-4 Air-dry Clay Bins (https://amzn.to/2M7vIwk)
Leather Lace/Cord (https://amzn.to/2KFlz4c)
Gold Gilding Paper (https://amzn.to/2Oovz45)
Gilding Adhesive (https://amzn.to/2wv7yBO)
Clear Water-based Enamel Paint (https://amzn.to/2MkiGeg)
Rust-oleum 245199 Universal All Surface Spray Paint, 12 Oz, Gloss White (https://amzn.to/2B2ChLc)
Modge Podge (https://amzn.to/2C1ufTm)
White Tissue Paper (https://amzn.to/2KL79Qk)
Small Dish Sponge (https://amzn.to/2OTqMZL)
Thick Trace Paper (https://amzn.to/2P0vMMa)
Razor Knife (https://amzn.to/2KER4eM)
Pin Tool (https://amzn.to/2KEPrhh)
Wood Sculpting Kit (https://amzn.to/2OY5XMP)
Sandpaper Sponge (https://amzn.to/2M9RL4J)
Paint Brush (https://amzn.to/2M4IM5r)
Latex/Nitrile Gloves (https://amzn.to/2vuMYBe)
Rolling Pin (https://amzn.to/2Md5EyT)
Crazy Glue (https://amzn.to/2NCy3ft)
Mitre Saw (http://www.ryobitools.ca/products/details/639)
Power Drill (http://www.ryobitools.ca/products/details/749)
Paint Brush (https://amzn.to/2MaLxRY)
Parchment Paper (https://amzn.to/2Mf1u9F)
18”x24” Sheet of Canvas (https://amzn.to/2vxhM4q)
2x Small Bowl (https://amzn.to/2KExWh6)
Step 1: Once you’ve sourced your desired barn wood boards, lay out your boards on a large surface or the ground. You will need 6 boards, but feel free to stain these as desired. Stagger the lengths to create a diamond shape.
Step 2: If your boards are all the same length, use a chop saw or circular saw to create the various lengths. There are no specific measurements you need to adhere to - it’s all cut to taste!
Step 3: Measure the width of the panel. Take your 1x2x8 and lay it across the planks, marking the length of wood. Cut two identical pieces to create the support on the back, and use your leftover to create the middle of your Z shape. Angle the ends of the centrepiece with a mitre saw.
Step 4: Screw your Z shape onto the back of the barn-board panels using 1” wood screws. Make sure every board has been attached! You’ll also want to keep the barn-board pieces as close together as possible.
Before moving on test your brace! Hold up the panel: does it feel secure? Any movement of piece? If yes, add more screws.
Step 5: Attach your 30-50 lb-rated hangers onto the top 1x2 brace, one on each side. On the lower brace, place 2 furniture pads to protect the wall.
Step 6: Add some nails or hooks to the front of your project. These will be where the planters get hung!
Step 7: Place on the panel on the wall - hang from two picture hanger nails that are carefully measured to be level (measure up from the floor to ensure their placed at the same height, otherwise use a bubble level).
NOTE: Using a cable is NOT recommended on this piece because the weight can shift and fall sideways!
Step 1: Take the tracing paper and pencil and draw a circle. This will act as the base (wall) shape that you want the planter to have. Cut it out. Take your cut out circle, place it under another sheet of tracing paper and trace a half moon shape in the same size of your original circle. Cut this out. You now have the base and opening/front of your planter. Make sure to leave enough of an opening for a plant to fit in!
Step 2: Take your base and front pocket cut-outs and create slightly smaller versions using the same technique. It needs to be about ½” smaller. Cut these two shapes out. Later they will line the inside of your planter when the completed piece is drying to keep the sides from sticking together.
Step 3: On your canvas sheet, separate your bin’s-worth of clay into two halves and roll them into a ball, trying to get rid of most of the lines and bubbles.
Step 4: Place a fist ball on the middle of the canvas and begin to roll out and flatten using a roller/dowel until it is ¼” thick.
TIP: The canvas surface helps to keep clay from sticking to the work surface. You can do this on parchment, too, but it is harder to keep the parchment from sliding around, so tape it down!
Step 5: Lay your base pattern of trace paper onto the flattened clay (Aka the larger stencil). Cut out the shape in the clay. KEEP THE COIL OF CLAY from the off-cut, it will be used later. Repeat Step 5 with the front pocket piece.
Step 6: Lay your pocket front paper pattern on your cut-to-size clay base and, using the pin tool, mark the point on the base where the pattern corners end. Then take your “inside” trace paper layer (use this as your guide), and use the pin tool to score radiating lines all the way around the rim of the base where the front pocket will be joining the base.
Step 7: Lay your “inside” trace paper layer on the front pocket piece and use the pin tool to score lines along the edge of that rim. No need to mark an end as it will touch all the way around. Now you are ready to ‘glue’ these two pieces together.
Step 8: Take that coil of clay you’ve been saving and roll it so that it is about ¼” diameter - if it breaks apart here or there, it’s okay, you can mush it back together. Make the coil long enough to go around the bottom curve of your front pattern piece taking care to taper the ends a bit. Take a few pinches worth of the leftover coil and put them into a small bowl, add water to make SLIP.
SLIP TIP: When joining two pieces of clay together, score or roughen both surfaces, then apply slip before pressing firmly together. To make slip, mix together clay and water until it's the consistency of heavy cream.
Step 9: Using your dish sponge or your fingers spread on a thin amount of SLIP to the scored edges. Avoid getting any water past the scored edge - keep the rest dry.
Step 10: Lay the coil with the tapered ends onto the now-slipped rim. Using your pin tool, draw scores down the side to help join the coil to the base, then press your pin all around the coil.
Step 11: Add some SLIP on the coil and also on the scored part of the front pocket piece of clay.
Step 12: Place your inside trace paper pattern pieces back in place. Roll up a sheet of tissue into a loose ball, flat and shaped to your planter dimensions - play around till you get the depth (should be no more than 3-4” MAX) and shape that you want your final planter to be.
Lay it on the base. This is going to help create your bulbus planter shape.
Step 13: Take the front pocket piece and lay it score-face down onto your base and tissue paper. Line up the edges of the scores and make sure the ends match up. If you have too much tissue paper, remove some of flatten it more as needed. You have time to play here, so do it right and avoid tearing your clay. Sponge on a bit more water if the slip is starting to dry, but it should be okay for a good 15 minutes. Lightly pinch and push your rim together.
Step 14: Now you are in full sculptural mode - use your smoothing tools, fingers, x-acto, to trim the edges, take off excess, and smooth the surface of the front of the pocket.
Step 15: Shape your pocket and put in extra tissue paper if necessary to keep it propped up while drying. After the clay has dried for an hour or so you can put your last finishing touches on the pocket shape and smooth it all out one last time. This is the time to cut out the “handle” or hang-hole. Make sure there is at least 1 ½” from the edge for support.
Step 16: Wait 3-4 days - or until clay has completely hardened. There are many ways to aid drying but the main things to remember are to keep them out of wind or rain, and they dry faster in the sun (i.e. a window) or near a heating unit such as a radiator.
Step 17: Smooth your pocket with a fine grit sandpaper and the sanding sponge. Keep the tissue paper in, but be very careful not to press! Brush off dust by blowing on it or even using a soft brush.
Step 18: Initial-seal your planter with Modge Podge, let dry - this should take about 2 hours.
Step 19: Choose a colour and spray paint your project!
Step 20: Add the gold leaf gilding paper to the back/interior opening area of the planter using, special gilding adhesive and a paintbrush.
Step 21: Use a clear acrylic spray/varnish to seal your paint since you will probably need to water your plants, be sure to read all directions on paint dry time so your project stands the test of time.
Step 22: As a final aesthetic look, wrap your leather lace around the handle and secure with super glue in the back. This is a simple way to add a nice rustic touch to your planters.
Step 23: Take a small freezer bag and line the inside of your planter with it. (Adding a little line of crazy glue around the rim may help). Add some stones to the bottom, and fill with your plant and dirt. One trick is to buy some plastic stones from your local dollar store because they have the same effect but are much lighter.
Step 24: Carefully hang your planters on the hooks of the panel that is on the wall!